1. Know your karats*
   Look for the karat mark, which will tell you that the piece is real gold and the percentage of pure gold it contains. Pure gold, or 24K, is rarely used because it is soft and easily damaged. Instead gold is alloyed with other metals, such as copper, silver, nickel and zinc, to give it strength and durability. Different proportions of these alloys also give gold its rose, green, or white coloration. 18K gold is 75% gold; 14K is 58.5%; and 10K is 41.6%. The higher the karatage, the richer the color will be--and the more costly. In the U.S. jewelry must be at least 10K to be legally sold as real gold. (In Canada and Mexico, the minimum legal standard of karatage is 9K and 8K respectively.) Imported gold jewelry may be stamped with different numbers. For example, the European markings for 14 karat gold jewelry is 585; for 18K is 750.
   
   
2. Look for the trademark
   On karat-marked jewelry sold in the U.S., always look for the manufacturer's hallmark. By U.S. law it must be there. When there's a hallmark, it means the manufacturer stands behind the accuracy of the karat mark. You may also find the country of origin marked.
   
   
3. Evaluating price
   In addition to karat weight, the price of gold jewelry is determined by several factors: total weight; design and construction; and ornamental detailing, such as engraving or Florentine finish. Although nearly all gold jewelry today is made with the help of special machines, some handwork is always involved. The more there is, the higher the price. The good news is that through modern manufacturing technology, large, lightweight, and exciting pieces can be surprisingly affordable.
   
   
4. Check the clasp
   When buying a gold necklace or bracelet, make sure you examine the clasp to see if it is strong enough to support the chain, especially if the piece does not have a hallmark. Run your hand over the chain and look for any rough edges. A well-made piece of gold jewelry should look and feel like the quality piece it is. And if you take the time to look it over, you will have a piece that with good care can last a lifetime.
   
   
5. Shop where the Goldmark is displayed
   When you see the "Goldmark" in a store showcase or window, you can be sure that what you're buying is at least 14 karats or more.
   

HOW TO SHOP FOR FINE JEWELRY

Buying a piece of fine jewelry is unlike buying any other product. What other product comprises materials that are often billions of years old? The natural gemstones and precious metals from which fine jewelry is created have a uniqueness and complexity that require special knowledge--and often gemological equipment--not readily accessible to the average consumer. No two gemstones are alike; design and quality vary greatly from piece to piece. Most consumers could not evaluate a strand of quality cultured pearls, distinguish between a blue topaz and a sapphire, or recognize a one-carat diamond. And even if they do know the difference between carats and karats, how do they know they are getting what they're paying for?

With the proliferation of jewelry outlets, including catalogs and electronic shopping, selecting where and what to buy can be a daunting experience. the Jewelry Information Center, a non-profit trade association headquarters in New York City, provides the following tips on finding the right jeweler and what to look for when buying fine jewelry.

1. Buy from a trusted jeweler or one who has been recommended.
   Choosing the right jeweler is like choosing a doctor: ask friends or colleagues to recommend someone they know and trust. Otherwise, find out how long the jeweler has been in business by checking with the Better Business Bureau or the Chamber of Commerce. The right jeweler is a trained professional who can knowledgeably guide his customer through the selection process. And he will be there later if the piece needs to be cleaned, restrung, or remounted. Find out what other services the jeweler provides that might be important in the future. Ask what the return or trade-up policy is. And finally, is the jeweler affiliated with one of the jewelry trade organizations that require a code of conduct for its members?
   
   
2. Don't be dazzled by discounts.
   If a store is offering unbelievable discounts of 50% or more, the sale is probably just that -- unbelievable. Consumers should play it safe by shopping around first and comparing actual value. They may find that a regular price at other stores matches or is less than the "discounted" sales price.
   
   
3. Look for the registered trademark and quality mark.
   When buying a piece of gold jewelry, the karat mark, often called the quality mark, tells the percentage of pure gold in the piece. Pure gold, or 24K, is usually considered too soft for jewelry. It must be alloyed with other metals, such as copper, zinc or silver, to give it strength and durability. 14K gold, for example, is 58.3% gold; the rest are alloys. Jewelry less than 10K gold (or 41.7% gold) cannot be legally sold as gold in the U.S. Ask the jeweler to show you the quality mark for gold, as well as for platinum and sterling silver jewelry. If the quality mark appears on the piece, a registered U.S. trademark is required by federal law. That assures the consumer that the manufacturer stands behind the authenticity of the piece If the trademark is not there, don't buy it.
   
   
4. Get it in writing.
   When buying fine jewelry, ask the jeweler to write a complete description on your receipt. For gold jewelry, ask for the karatage; for diamonds, the cut, color, clarity, and carat weight (the weight of the center stone and total carat weight if there are side stones); for colored stones, ask for a description of overall color and carat weight and if the stone is of natural origin or has been treated in any way. That information should be included on the bill of sale.
   No other object known to man gives as much lasting pleasure as a piece of fine jewelry, made from precious metals and ancient stones found deep beneath the earth's surface. The shopping experience can be equally enjoyable when consumers keep in mind the above tips and look for a knowledgeable, established

TIPS FOR CARE AND CLEANING OF FINE JEWELRY

Gems and precious metals are gifts of nature, which need special care. Even though a gem may be millions of years old, once mined and worn, it is exposed to conditions and chemicals that can damage it.

The harder the gem, the less vulnerable it is to potential damage. A diamond, for example, is the hardest gem known to man, and that's one reason why "it is forever."

Hardness is based on a gem-trade standard called the Mohs Scale, developed in the early 19th century. The scale is structured so that material rated at each higher number can scratch substances with lower numbers. Diamonds are rated the highest, at 10; rubies and sapphires are Mohs 9; emeralds and topaz, 8; and garnets, tourmalines and quartz, 7. Anything softer than a 7 can be scratched, including opal, turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, pearl.

Gold, silver, and platinum are only Mohs 2-1/2 to 4, which means that they require special care when wearing, storing, or cleaning. Here are some Do's and Don'ts:

• DON'T wear fine jewelry when doing housework or gardening.
  
  
• DON'T heap your jewelry into one drawer. Remember a diamond ring can scratch that pearl necklace. Keep them separate and ideally wrapped in velvet, paper, or silk.
  
  
• DO check for loose stones frequently by gently tapping the piece with your finger near your ear.
  
  
• DO get pearls restrung every two years or annually with frequent use.

* DO clean fine jewelry often to maintain its sparkle and beauty. Do not use toothpaste as its abrasives can damage softer gems and metals. All fine jewelry can be safely cleaned by soaking for 10 minutes in warm soapy water (using a non-detergent soap). Use a soft brush on harder gems to loosen any dirt around the prongs. To reduce greasy build-up on diamond jewelry, dip it in plain alcohol or vodka before soaking.

Gifts The Wedding Party Will Cherish After The "I Do's"

More couples getting married today are covering most of all of their wedding costs. One integral cost is gifts for the wedding party. This tradition dates from ancient times when Egyptian noble women presented precious metals and gems to their ladies-in-waiting. In the Victorian era, the traditional gift was remembrance rings. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert gave out six dozen rings bearing the Queen's portrait carved in gold.

Today's couples need not spend a King's (or Queen's) ransom on their wedding party; even gifts of fine jewelry are available in a range of prices. The Jewelry Information Center, a nonprofit trade association in New York, suggests the following gift ideas for the wedding party:

• Cultured pearls and diamonds are traditional gifts for the bride.
  
  
• Consider fine jewelry for your bridal party gifts as well.
  

For her attendants, the bride might choose a sterling silver heart-shaped perfume flask pendant; a crystal ring holder; or an antique-style sterling silver make-up brush. Gifts for ushers include: a sterling silver business card holder; a sports watch with a lighted dial; a sterling silver letter opener; or a monogrammed silver flask. The maid of honor and the best man should receive a gift that's a little "extra" for their hard work. For her, classic cultured pearl stud earrings; a karat gold charm; or 14K gold & silver heart-shaped earrings. For the best man, a 1940's style classic analog dress watch or sports-themed 14K gold or sterling cufflinks.

"Fine jewelry is the perfect gift for the bride and groom to show their appreciation," says Lynn Ramsey, President of the Jewelry Information Center. "Unlike any other gift, fine jewelry will last for years to come, long after the bride and groom have said 'I Do.'"

*Don't be confused with "carats," the weight measure used for diamonds and other gems.
Copyright © 1997 by JIC. All rights reserved.